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Friday, April 8, 2011

April 3rd 2011

Sitting on the shore of Lake Mojave, I am surrounded by the sand and rock of a campsite beach. This completely artificial oasis is made possible by the large concrete dam built on the Colorado River about a quarter mile south of us. The beach is courtesy of the National Park Service. My party is joined by nearly a dozen other groups of RV’ers, mallards, wood duck, common grackle and a pair of geese. The mallards seem to have paired for the season, one male with his shimmering emerald cap, white collar, brown vest and slate belly; the female in brown. One pair has staken claim to the same small patch of beach on which I will be residing. They defend it fervently, the male going so far as to pursue other pairs in flight, banking and turning like a top gun dogfight. The grackles, small black and brown birds with yellow eyes and cumbersome folded tails privilege us with their enthusiastic, if not strange song. The wood duck, a solitary male has taken up following a pair of mallards like a third wheel on a first date. His unusual behavior does not overshadow his exquisite beauty however. He wears a great crest on his head and bright shades of green on his face, accented by streaks of piercing white. More noteworthy may even be his blood red eyes. The geese it would seem are locals well accustomed to humans. They go so far as to walk right up to the humans and murmur a low noise as if to beckon a hand out.
This beach lies on a small bay on the lake so we can see short outcropping of sandstone and white limestone speckled with flowering creosote. Up until now the creosote has been a scraggly bush with faint traces of green as it has pushed small leaves in bunches out the ends of its thin branches. However, the whole landscape is now full of bright yellow as each plant produces hundreds of tiny flowers.
Across the river lies Arizona, A gentle slope rises from the river up to a sudden and drastic change to a ridgeline dotted with mesas and precipices. The rock that hasn’t eroded away towers above the slope below creating a dragon’s tail like scene. The desert looks desolate from this distance.
As the sun sets behind me I watch my shadow grow longer, reaching farther out into the gently rippling water. The breeze is blowing down the river from the north bringing with it the pollen from a spring thrust to life and a calming sound as it rustles the leaves of the cottonwood tree I sit under.
In a setting such as this I can’t help but think of my home in the Appalachians. I yearn to be back in the rolling hills, covered by a fine mist, masked by a dense cover of oak and pine. I ache to hear the song birds as they travel through this time of year and smell the honeysuckle.
The sun is setting down behind the granite spires of Bridge Canyon Wilderness. The Sandstone of Arizona remains lit up, but the temperature begins to drop and the wind is picking up on my beach oasis. The smell of charcoal and the need to layer up reawakens me from my Smokies daydream. It would seem that setting up camp will take precedence over writing for the time being.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

April 3, 2011

Sunday,
Spirit Mountain, a place of rich cultural and religious significance to the native people of this area. Jagged granite spires, clear spring water, lush plant life and a gathering of migratory birds barely describes the beauty and power of this landscape. That is my destination for the week. I'll be leaving in just a few hours.

This past week I've spent my days finding the snow line in the Spring Mountains for the Forest Service (FS). Basically what this entails is hiking up a trail and taking a GPS coordinate of any fallen trees, flowing water, or breaks in the snow. It also means that when I can't find the trail in the snow, or it gets too deep to pass I take note of that too. All of this information is used by the FS to inform the public of where they could/should be hiking.
I started out by driving the Harris Spring Road, which is a playground for OHV and Jeeps near the base of the mountain. The whole area is very heavily used with tire tracks going off in every direction. I eventually reached a point where the snow was too deep to continue driving, so back down the hill I went.
On Wednesday Chris and I hiked the Mary Jane Falls Trail. We had little expectation of just how far we would actually be able to hike in, but were hopeful that we could find something cool. At the trail head the snow was very shallow, maybe two inches or so. Yet, due to the use that this trail was receiving the snow on the trail was thinned out and melting in the sun. This caused a slippery mess combining snow and ice and mud. Farther up the trail we became surrounded by large old pine trees and white rolling hills. Every now and then we would come across a small tree across the trail and happily pulled it off to the side. As we gained elevation the snow got deeper and deeper, and the footprints became fewer and fewer until we were following what seemed to be a single set. Whoever it was that created these tracks, I was happy that they had trudged out ahead because there's no other way I would have know where the trail was for all the snow.
Up we went, higher and higher catching glimpses of the surrounding ridgeline through the trees. Limestone faces painted with white lines where ever snow could hang on and black pine trees sprung up like stubble on an unshaven chin. We took a long break for lunch, weary from the constant strain of lifting our feet up over the snow and pushing them back down in. Three feet of snow is nice until you sink down to your groin, soaking your socks and pants. Several times during lunch I heard a strange noise from farther up the trail, like hooves on rock or stones falling. After taking time to enjoy my carrot and homemade sourdough we continued up the footprint path until we heard the sound of flowing water. The sound brought me right back home to flowing streams and creeks that I grew up playing in in Georgia. However, when I raised my eyes up to the ridge where we were headed I saw the water pouring off of the cliff. Through the trees I could see that the water found its way over a 80-100 foot drop and made a series of steps down the snow covered ledges of the face. As we approached, the running water cut underneath the snow. It was an eerie sight to see a large area of snow and hear the water rushing, but not know how deep it was or where it was safe to cross.



Nearing the base of the fall I heard that same noise again, like falling rock, and looked up to see that as the snow high up on the fall melted it tumbled down the face in huge blocks. The blocks pile up at the base of the fall creating a huge mound. The water that falls onto this pile cuts through it, forming this massive sculpture of ice and snow with pillars and spears sticking straight up into the sky. We watched carefully as more snow would fall off the face and onto the piles, waiting for an opportunity to climb in behind the fall to a cave. After one big crash of falling snow we made a run for it, quickly and carefully climbing the wet rock to a space that had eroded away behind the fall. We spent a great deal of time here marveling at the beauty of our current situation. Observing the power of the fall, studying the curves of the giant icicles, inspecting the amazing plants that grow straight of the rock, and basking in the serenity of the mountaintop scene. I didn't ever want to leave.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

March 31, 2011

Today is Thursday!
So far I've had a pretty exciting week! But before I tell you about that let me share a little bit about the weekend that came before it. You see, last week I was stuck in a cubicle working on reporting. So Chris (my roomate) and I busted out on Friday afternoon and headed south on 15. Our first stop was a really good Mexican restaurant in Barstow, CA called Rosita's. The decorations on the wall were kinda weird, like a Mexican version of Disney animation but with potato characters. The food on the other hand was quite good. They served a super hot sauce along side their salsa and chips in case you needed to make your appetizer a bit more exciting. Two Tecates and bean salad later we were on the road again. By the time we got to Victorville, CA it was already dark. There wasn't anything noteworthy there anyway. On to Los Angeles! I was kind of excited about seeing this famous city and all the streets that I had grown up being exposed to in movies and television. Hollywood Blvd: check. Sunset Blvd: Check. Santa Monica Blvd: Check. We didn't linger long and headed northwest of the city to Topanga State Park (yes, like the girld from Boy Meets World!). However, upon our arrival at the park which is tucked away inside of a high class subdivision, we found the gate locked and no way around the tire destroying spikes in the road. So eastbound we went to Angeles National Forest! Seems really cool right? Well, driving around a National Forest in the dark and coming upon a state prison: not so cool. After we drove around the road that meandered through the strange trees and rolling hills we found a great patch of dirt to pitch the tent. It just so happened that this patch of dirt was right next to the Forest Service Fire Station parking lot. Oh well. We were greeted Saturday morning by a raven fervently alerting every other creature in the vicinity that there was red tailed hawk in nearby. The red tailed hawk also greeted the morning with its skreeching call. It was a thrill to pull open the tent and see the forest in morning light. We were in dense forest, surrounded by bird sounds and cloaked in a fine mist. The vale of water droplets in the air briefly covered the hills, and then allowed you to glimpse them as they gently blew around. It was like being in the Smokies again. We spent most of the day wandering around the forest, taking lots of time to study the flora that seemed so foreign and other worldly. All of the time that I spent identifying plants back East was wasted on an entire different ecosystem. I didn't see a single plant that I recognized. Yet, it was intoxicating. I was entranced by the complexity of the flowers and the delicacy of the leaves. I was baffled at the scale of the trees and the rigidity of the thorns. This place was magical.
There was a hill near a stream that had eroded to expose the rock underneath. It crumbled into small pieces, as if it were held together by nothing more than will. Between the cracks succulents grew, and to amazing sizes. High up on the hill, well out of range to safely reach a crew of succulents held fast onto the vertical grade. Some of these unreal plants exceeded two feet in diameter and had multiple flower stalks.


After a full day's hike we decided to head to the ocean and finally get to sink our toes in it. Westward bound again we came to a small state beach. This park area looked as if it had been quite an amazing and popular place thirty years ago. But, today this place was rundown. Everything was locked up, the parking lots were empty, and the hobos had set up camp. There was a running trail that ran between the dunes and the parking lot that seemed to be very popular amongst bikers, runners, and walkers. However, no one seemed to linger in the park. They followed the trail in one end of the park and out the other, as if to bigger and better sights. I moseyed out onto the beach, which was covered in smooth stones that seemed to pulled straight out of a river bed and placed perfectly spaced in the soft sand. As I made my way down to the water I noticed a distinct odor: death. I glanced up and down the beach and noticed flies buzzing about me. I followed their trail and found a carcass well deteriorated right in the middle of the beach. At first glance it took on the shape of a fish, about four feet long and almost leathery with lots of large holes in it. Yet, there were bones. In fact there was a large vertebrae about the size of a dog's. Upon further inspection, sure enough, fur! This must have been a sea lion! Welcome to the Pacific, mind the carcass.

That night we cruised back to downtown LA to find the music scene I've been hearing so much about. I couldn't find the names of anything exciting on my dying Iphone, so we hit up the first bar we could find to maybe ask the local folk: So and so's Tavern or something like that. Turns out this 'tavern' served nothing but bud light and other assorted travesties so we hightailed out to the next bar, which happened to have two hundred some odd awesome handcrafted beers from around the world. Needless to say, we ended up spending too much time there 'world travelling' and found our best option was sleeping in the car.

Sunday morning was filled with hangover hilarity as Chris got to see that burrito he consumed the night before again, only this time spattered across a gas station parking lot. From there we headed back to LV with a newfound sense of accomplishment for surviving our unplanned adventure and excitement for the next one.

I was going to talk about this week though! I guess it will have to wait until tomorrow when it actually ends. Night!

Monday, March 21, 2011

March 21, 2011

Today is Monday, actually I've had the day off! Woohoo!
My roomate Chris and I decided that it would be a great use of the day to go snowboarding.
I really really needed a way to let loose and blow off some steam after a rough week. Chris and I were planning on running up to Zion National Park, but between the weather and the cost, it just didn't seem like a good idea.  So, a Monday morning after a heavy snowfall? Snowboard!
It continued to snow all day, which was awesome.
We were shrouded in a cloud of wisping snowflakes and clouds that would only allow light to cast on the surrounding mountain peaks for a few moments and quickly close the sun out again. The falling snow created this surreal, three dimensional environment, cloaking distance in a grey mist.
Learning to snowboard was actually pretty easy. It was definitely easier than everyone I've spoken to made it out to be. I learned pretty quickly (I'll leave out the stories of me tumbling down the mountain over and over again).

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Catching up: March 17th

So, I realized today that I haven't been posting anything on here! Oh dear!
Well today is:
Thursday March 17, 2011.

Catching you up completely would be pretty much impossible so I'll stick to the highlights.
I've been doing Wilderness monitoring for the Forest Service, National Park Service, and BLM. So far I've been to Lovell Canyon, Wee Thump Joshua Tree, Gold Butte, Bridge Canyon, Nellis Wash, and Spirit Mountain. These places are each unique and very important to our nation for historic and natural values. Last week I attended the inagural National Wilderness Stewardship Alliance Confrence and got to speak with higher ups in the agencies, and people representing Friends groups all across the country. Overall, this is proving to be an eye opening experience.

I'll try to make more detailed reports from now on, and actually keep them up to date.
Cheers!

Backlog: Jan 19

January 19, 2011
Wednesday

So today at work I got to see a presentation of wildlife photography from the various Wilderness areas around Clark County. I also got to participate in a few of the activities that are facilitated to school kids around the county: dots on the wall, picture sort, and word pyramid. Dots on the wall consisted of 6 posters hung on the wall, each with a statement like ‘I can state 3 reasons Wilderness is important’ or ‘I believe Wilderness is worth protecting.’ Each participant gets 6 stickers and places his/her stickers on a continuum under the statement of agree to disagree. Picture sort had a series of pictures and the group was asked to place them into two categories Wilderness and non Wilderness. Word Pyramid: each participant received a sheet of paper with a pyramid on it, and a set of small pieces of paper, each having a word on it like fresh air or hunting and fishing. The participants were asked to place the more important pieces at the top of the pyramid and the less so farther down the pyramid.
We then went through an entire lecture on interpretation techniques, and even role played some methods for dealing with problem kids.
Then we spent a long time working on the menu for next week’s hike.
I had a beer, sorry this is blunt. I’m tired and don’t feel like writing.

Backlog: Jan 13

January 13, 2011
Thursday

First day of ‘WFA’ training took place in the Lovell Canyon. Overall a pretty draining day between listening to way too much information being thrown at me and just being really long. The Red Cross’ WFA training has turned into a 2 day WFR course with a limp. It is too fast and too dense to really be beneficial to anyone. There is not enough practice and too much lecture to really be retained by anyone. IT IS DANGEROUS. I did basically the same course over the course of 8 days and got to practice for long periods of time each day. This course is crap.
I miss Kat a lot. Knowing she is close, the soft sensation of her skin under my fingertips release so much serotonin in my brain that I am having severe withdrawls from not having her here everyday. It gives me a sinking, almost panic feeling when I consider doing something significant or dangerous without having that immediate sense of reassurance. I am in a constant state of stress. It takes most of my effort to keep composed and put the group first. I wanted to curl up in a ball and disappear several times today and last night. I have a lot to gain from being here but I think they would be better off without me somethimes. It is hard to sleep. Kat is my home and I want to go to her.
We spent the day sitting in a circle in what used to be a camping spot down a forest service road. It was covered in broken glass of greens a browns scattered amongst the old rifle cartridges. We were surrounded by beautiful mountains. Off in the distance was Mt. Charlston and the Mummy. Joshua and Juniper trees surrounded us as well. Those mountains are truly breathtaking.